Are you thinking about visiting the Cyclades in December? Then we can highly recommend coming to Syros Island and its main town, Ermoupoli, the capital of the Cyclades, because it stays alive year-round. Therefore, Syros is one of the best Cycladic islands to visit in winter.

While most visitors associate the Cyclades with sunny summer days and crowded beaches, Syros has a completely different charm in winter. And December, with the Christmas holidays, is one of the most atmospheric and wonderful times to experience Ermoupoli and Syros.

No, December probably isn’t for everyone. The weather can be unpredictable, the days are short, swimming isn’t an option for most of us, and some of the island’s summer restaurants, beach bars and tourist businesses will be closed.

But unlike the completely deserted feeling that you can experience on some smaller Greek islands, such as in Mykonos Town or Naoussa in Paros, Ermoupoli is very much alive in December and beautifully decorated.

We spent two winters in Ermoupoli and loved our experience! We used to sit down in a warm café eating delicious Greek food, join the locals (including many digital nomads who stay here for the winter) doing their Christmas shopping, experience traditional Greek celebrations, enjoy many stunning winter sunrises and sunsets, and go for multiple hikes around the island.

Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Syros in December!

Read more: Best things to do in Ermoupoli

What is Syros like in December?

Many people wonder if it’s worth visiting Syros in December and/or spending your Christmas holidays here. If you ask us, absolutely! Especially if you want to experience a more authentic side of the island and are looking for a quiet Greek island escape rather than a traditional beach holiday.

During the winter months, Syros changes from a summer holiday destination into a real Greek island community. There are still visitors and digital nomads, but tourism is no longer the centre of island life.

Unlike in some Greek island towns, where visiting in December can feel like arriving in a ghost town, Ermoupoli is very alive. Only a few businesses close, and plenty of stores, restaurants, and cafes remain open. Christmas adds another layer to the city, with beautiful decorations and Christmas events taking place in the weeks around Christmas and New Year.

The rest of the island feels a lot quieter, especially Ano Syros and the beach towns such as Kini, Galissas, or Vari. However, they are still worth a visit for the views or a quiet beach day. And Syros in December is perfect for hiking, with greener hills after the autumn rains and the harsh summer light being gone.

Read more: Best hikes in Syros

Practical tips for Syros in December

How to get to Syros in December

There are three ways to reach Syros:

• By ferry from Athens/Piraeus: this is how most people arrive on the island. Syros is connected to Piraeus, the main port of Athens, throughout the year, although the frequency of ferries is less in winter. Read more in our guide on taking the ferry from Athens to Syros.
• By plane from Athens: Syros has its own small airport, Syros Island National Airport (JSY). There are scheduled flights connecting Syros with Athens all year round. In December, there are 3 flights a week, on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Read more in our guide on flying from Athens to Syros.
• By ferry from another Cycladic island if you are island-hopping: you can also take the ferry if you’re coming from a neighboring island, such as Tinos, Mykonos, or Paros. Just be aware, again, that in winter the ferries are less frequent.

Our personal choice? If you have enough time, definitely the ferry. Arriving in Ermoupoli by sea is part of the Syros experience. Seeing the colourful neoclassical buildings climbing the hills as the ferry approaches the harbour is spectacular, even in winter.

TIP: Winter ferry schedules are much less frequent than in summer, so check the timetable carefully before booking accommodation or onward travel. And there’s another important consideration: winter weather can affect ferries. Strong Aegean winds can occasionally cause delays or cancellations. If you’re travelling for Christmas and have an important flight or international connection, I would avoid planning an extremely tight connection. Give yourself some flexibility.

Read more: A full guide on how to get to Syros

How to get around in Syros in December?

If you’re staying in Ermoupoli, you can easily spend several days without a car. There are plenty of things to do in Ermoupoli and in nearby Ano Syros. You can even go on a hike (the Alithini loop) without needing transport.

If you want to explore the rest of the island from Ermoupoli, there are taxis that will take you anywhere on the island, also in December. Perfect if you want to go to the beaches, villages, or go hiking.

Public transport operates year-round, but services are heavily reduced in winter compared to summer. If you’re visiting for Christmas, check the winter bus timetable here and don’t rely on the summer schedule.

If you want the freedom to have your own wheels, or are staying outside of Ermoupoli in December, we strongly advise you to rent a car for the duration of your stay.

Read more: Complete guide on car rental in Syros

Syros weather in December

December is one of the wetter months of the year in Syros, but temperatures are generally much milder than in northern Europe. You can expect mild days, cool evenings, occasional rain, and plenty of variation from one week to the next.

A typical December might include sunny days where you can comfortably sit outside for coffee, followed by a windy or rainy day when you’ll want a warm jacket. Winter averages put Syros at roughly 14°C–16°C during the day and 8–11°C at night, with the sea around 16–17°C.

While we were there, we had days when we could tip our toes into the water and others where we needed a hat, scarf, and umbrella. Don’t let the picture below fool you. We’ve had plenty of sunny days too :-)!

Read more: Best time to visit Syros

What should you pack for Syros in December?

Don’t make the mistake of assuming that Greece automatically means warm weather. The wind can make temperatures feel considerably colder, particularly along the waterfront and on exposed hills.

Layers are your best friend. You might start the day wearing a jacket, sit outside for lunch in the sunshine and then need your coat again after sunset.

For December, I’d pack:

• warm layers
• a warm jacket
• waterproof jacket or umbrella
• comfortable walking shoes
• trousers/jeans
• sweaters
• T-shirts and long sleeves
• a scarf
• something warm for evenings
• sunglasses
• sunscreen
• a small daypack

Best things to do in Syros in December

The biggest mistake would be visiting Syros in December and trying to recreate a summer itinerary. Forget beach hopping. December is about Ermoupoli, culture, food, hiking, and island life.

I won’t go over all the different things to do in Syros, as you can read all about them in our guide. But here’s a list of some things I want to highlight that are especially wonderful in Syros in December:

• Wander around in Ermoupoli without the crowds: as Christmas approaches, Ermoupoli becomes festive, and the main streets and square are decorated with lights and Christmas displays. Take an evening walk to enjoy the holiday atmosphere.

• Go shopping: Ermoupoli has a wonderful selection of boutiques with clothing, jewelry, pottery, etc. Especially around the holiday season, it is lovely to go shopping in Ermoupoli. Read our article on the best shops in Syros for more.

• Enjoy a hot meal and drink: eating and drinking are genuinely among the best things to do in Syros in December. You’ll find year-round cafés and restaurants in Ermoupoli. You can find the full list among the best restaurants in Syros, but further on we’ll mention a couple of our winter favorites.

• Go for a winter hike: December is a fantastic month for hiking on Syros. The temperatures are much more comfortable than in summer, and the landscape is greener. Just remember that winter weather can change quickly, with sometimes muddy tracks and strong winds. Check out our favorite hikes in Syros here.

• Visit the churches: Ermoupoli and the rest of Syros have many churches, but especially in December, during the holiday season, you should go visit them as Christmas is a mainly religious event in Greece.

• Watch a performance at the Apollon Theater: the beautiful theater of Ermoupoli continues to host cultural performances during the winter season and has Christmas performances as well. Check the Apollon Theater programme before your visit, because attending a performance can be one of the most memorable things you do on Syros.

Are there special events in Syros in December?

Yes, just like any month in Syros, there are many events, activities, and performances organized. But this time of year is special. The entire festive period starts on December 6th (Saint Nicholas Day, the patron saint of sailors) and ends on January 6th with Epiphany Day.

During December, most events take place in the capital, Ermoupoli. However, what is organized and the dates change year after year, so it is important to always check the event calendar of the municipality before you go, and ask locals (for example, ask your host).

December events usually include:

• Christmas tree lighting on Miaouli Square: last year this was on December 4th.
• Saint Nicholas Church: on December 6th, it’s Saint Nicholas’ name day, which is celebrated with boats around Saint Nicholas Church in Vaporia in Ermoupoli.
• Agios Stefanos Chapel: December 26th is one of the two annual days when the unique chapel in a cave, Agios Stefanos, celebrates Saint Stephen with a special religious service. Read more in our complete guide to visiting Agios Stefanos Chapel in Syros.
• Christmas markets or festive stalls
• Cultural performances and concerts at Apollon Theater
• Church services
• New Year’s celebrations

TIP: Don’t search for “Christmas in Syros” months before you go. Greek event information is often published closer to the date by the municipality, local organisations and businesses.

What is open in Syros in December?

This is one of the biggest advantages of choosing Syros over some smaller Cycladic islands. Ermoupoli remains open. You’ll find supermarkets, bakeries, pharmacies, cafés, restaurants, shops, banks, schools, local services, museums, and cultural venues open. But opening hours are generally shorter and some businesses close for winter.

For restaurants and cafés, around 60% stay open in Ermoupoli, which is still plenty. Some of our favorites that are open in winter include To Tsipouradiko tis Mirsinis, Laoutari (often with live music by the fire in winter), Amvix (Italian), Kin Khao (Thai), Epta, Box of Bush, etc.

The further you travel from Ermoupoli, however, the more seasonal closures you’ll encounter. For example, in Ano Syros and beach towns such as Kini and Galissas, almost everything is closed, except maybe one tavern on the weekend. Finikas is the only beach town that feels more alive in winter. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t visit Ano Syros and the villages. It simply means you shouldn’t expect them to function like they do in July.

TIP: Check our Syros Travel Guide + Google Maps for more info about what’s open, our favorite places, and everything you need to know to prepare your trip to Syros in December

Christmas in Syros

Christmas itself in Greece is primarily a family and religious celebration rather than the heavily commercialised Christmas experience you might find in northern Europe. So, if you’re looking for a peaceful, authentic Greek Christmas, Syros is a great option.

You’ll see Christmas decorations, lights, trees and festive events, but the atmosphere remains distinctly Greek. There are also traditional Christmas carols known as kalanda, which are sung during the festive season.

Christmas Eve is usually one of the liveliest days of the festive period. Spend the morning exploring Ermoupoli and doing some last-minute Christmas shopping. In the afternoon, enjoy a long lunch and then return to the centre as the Christmas activities begin. Local associations and cultural organisations often organise concerts, performances and traditional events.

However, there is an important caveat: Christmas Day itself is quiet. Don’t expect every restaurant, museum and shop to be open (plan ahead). December 25 and 26 are public holidays in Greece, and cultural attractions such as state museums close on these dates.

New Year’s Eve in Syros

New Year’s Eve is another interesting time to visit. Traditionally, Greeks celebrate New Year’s Eve with family and friends. Unlike many Western countries, the primary day for exchanging gifts and celebrating with Saint Basil (Agios Vasilis), the Greek equivalent of the figure associated with Santa Claus, is New Year’s Day rather than December 25th.

The evening is often spent eating, drinking and socialising before the countdown to midnight. If you want a restaurant dinner on New Year’s Eve, book well ahead. Many cafes will also be open where you can join the celebrations, such as Barrio by the main square.

In Ermoupoli, check the municipality’s programme for concerts, public celebrations and other events. The exact programme changes every year, so don’t rely on an event you saw advertised for a previous December.

New Year’s Day is another public holiday, so expect a quieter island. It’s a lovely day for walking and enjoying Ermoupoli without a particular agenda.

TIP: Don’t forget to try vasilopita, the traditional New Year’s cake containing a hidden coin. Whoever finds the coin is traditionally considered lucky for the coming year. And if you are around long enough, on January 6th they celebrate Epiphany Day in the old harbor, something you do not want to miss!

Where to stay in Syros in December

There are many great areas to stay in Syros, but for December, I’d strongly recommend staying in Ermoupoli. This is where you’ll find the greatest (and only) concentration of cafés, restaurants, shops, supermarkets, cultural attractions, Christmas events, taxis, and year-round accommodation. You can walk everywhere and don’t need to worry as much about seasonal closures.

However, many of the best hotels in Syros also close during winter. So here are our favorite accommodations in December in Ermoupoli:

• Guesthouse Lila: very spacious, comfortable, and beautifully designed rooms close to the port and city center.
• Syros Soul Luxury Suites: beautiful, comfortable suites located at Miaouli Square, right in the heart of Ermoupoli.
• Argini Syros: if you are looking for an authentic, neoclassical and luxurious stay in the beautiful Vaporia area.

What are the disadvantages of visiting Syros in December?

It would be misleading to tell you that December is perfect. There are some genuine disadvantages:

• The weather is unpredictable: you could get beautiful sunshine, but you could also get several rainy and windy days.
• Many tourist businesses are closed: beach clubs and seasonal restaurants won’t be operating.
• Ferries are less frequent: getting around the Cyclades is considerably easier in summer.
• The days are short: you’ll have fewer daylight hours for exploring.
• Swimming is only for the brave! I only did it a couple of times, and although amazing, it was very cold.
• Most villages and beaches are very quiet: that’s part of the charm, but it isn’t what everyone wants from a holiday.

More frequently asked questions about Syros in December

Is Syros open in December?

Yes. Syros is a year-round island, and Ermoupoli remains active throughout winter. However, many seasonal businesses close or reduce their opening hours, and most seaside villages and beaches are empty.

Is Syros warm in December?

It is mild rather than warm. Daytime temperatures are generally around 14–16°C, but evenings can be chilly, and winter storms can bring rain and much colder-feeling conditions. However, you can still sit outside at most restaurants (with heaters).

Does it rain a lot in Syros in December?

December is one of the wetter months, so you should be prepared for rain. However, rainy days are often mixed with sunny periods.

Who should visit Syros in December?

Come to Syros in December if you want a peaceful Greek island escape, a Greek Christmas experience, fewer tourists, lower accommodation prices, culture and architecture, great food, hiking and walking, authentic local life, a romantic getaway, a slower pace.

Choose another time if you want guaranteed sunshine, comfortable swimming, beach clubs, island hopping every day, lots of nightlife, every restaurant and attraction open.

How many days do you need in Syros in December?

I’d recommend 3–4 days for a first visit. Three days gives you enough time for Ermoupoli, Ano Syros, some cultural attractions and one or two excursions. If you’re coming specifically for Christmas or New Year’s, I’d stay 4–5 days to enjoy the festive atmosphere without rushing.

Can you visit Syros’ beaches in December?

You can absolutely visit the beaches in Syros. But there are no sun loungers, beach clubs, or crowds. You might have the entire beach almost to yourself. And you probably won’t be swimming. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Winter beaches are beautiful in their own way.

Is Syros expensive in December?

One of the advantages of travelling outside summer is that accommodation can be considerably cheaper than during high season. Food prices don’t necessarily drop dramatically because restaurants serving locals operate year-round, but you can often save substantially on accommodation and transport compared with peak season. December can therefore be an excellent month for a budget-friendly Greek island escape.

Can you swim in Syros in December?

Technically, yes. Practically, probably not unless you’re particularly brave. Sea temperatures are around 16°C, which most people will find far too cold for a leisurely swim. I did it a couple of times after a hike, and it’s cold!

Is December a good time for hiking on Syros?

Yes. Cooler temperatures make walking much more pleasant than in summer, and the island is often greener after the autumn rains. Check weather and trail conditions before setting out.

Is Syros crowded at Christmas?

No. Christmas is one of the quieter periods of the year compared with summer, although Ermoupoli becomes more lively around festive events and New Year’s Eve.

Is Syros a good Christmas destination for families?

Yes, if you visit Syros with kids, December and Christmas are a good time, particularly if your family likes cities, culture, food and exploring rather than skiing or traditional Christmas markets. Children can enjoy Christmas decorations, festive events, music, performances, Christmas activities, beaches without the crowds, Greek food and sweets. Just keep in mind that the weather may not cooperate every day. Have a few indoor options planned.

Is Syros romantic in December?

Very much so. In fact, December might be one of the most romantic times to visit. Imagine: a quiet marble square, Christmas lights reflected on wet streets, a warm café, Greek pastries, a walk through Ano Syros, dinner overlooking the harbour, and almost none of the summer crowds. If you’re looking for a cosy Greek island escape for two, Syros is a lovely choice.

Are restaurants open in Syros at Christmas?

Some are, particularly in Ermoupoli, but many businesses have reduced winter schedules and some close on Christmas Day. Always check ahead and reserve your Christmas meal.

Are shops open in Syros in December?

Many shops in Ermoupoli are open, although opening hours are generally shorter than during summer. Shops close on public holidays such as Christmas Day.

Does Syros have a Christmas market?

Syros has Christmas decorations and festive events, but don’t expect a huge Christmas market like those found in major European cities. The atmosphere is much more local and Greek.

Do you need a car in Syros in December?

Not necessarily. If you’re staying in Ermoupoli, you can easily spend several days without a car as there are taxis. If you are staying outside of Ermoupoli (which we wouldn’t recommend), you will need a car. Pubic transport is rather limited in winter.

Can I island-hop from Syros in December?

Yes, but island hopping is much more complicated in winter. Ferry connections are significantly reduced compared with summer, and bad weather can disrupt services. If island hopping is your priority, I’d choose spring, summer or early autumn instead.

Is Syros better than Mykonos in December?

For most travellers looking for a Greek island experience in December, I’d choose Syros. Mykonos is heavily dependent on tourism, while Syros has a substantial year-round population and Ermoupoli functions as a genuine working city throughout the year.

Final thoughts on visiting Syros in December

So, should you visit Syros and Ermoupoli in December and/or during the Christmas Holidays? Our answer is yes, but come for the right reasons.

Don’t come expecting the Cyclades of Instagram: blue skies, packed beach bars, swimming and ferries every hour. Come for something completely different.

Come to wander through the decorated, marble streets of Ermoupoli without the crowds. Come to drink coffee while locals go about their daily lives. Come to climb the narrow streets of Ano Syros in a cool winter breeze. Come to eat loukoumi, local cheese, and drink a warm rakomelo. Come to discover the cultural side of an island that most people don’t see in summer.

December shows you a side of Syros that most summer visitors never get to see. And that might just be the best reason to visit. We experienced it twice and can highly recommend it.